7 days, 7:00 AM - 7:00 PM
Eight things we do, arranged by what made you go and look at the door rather than by which system the fault belongs to. If you already know it is a spring you can jump straight there, and if all you have is a noise and a bad feeling, start at the top and work down — the symptom headings are written to be recognisable rather than technical, and every one of them names the components underneath it.
Everything below is available across Yukon and the western metro, quoted per component, with a free estimate and no obligation attached to the visit.
The reference page has no service list to pair against — its services live on its home page — so this block has no counterpart and is measured on token conformance rather than against a reference band. It carries the same four symptom groups as the home page, expanded, with an in-page anchor each.
Photo-eye alignment, a roller out of its track, a slack or frayed lift cable, a bent section of track. All four are visible faults, and you will be shown which one it was.
A broken torsion or extension spring. Replaced in pairs, for the reason that the surviving spring is the same age as the one that just failed and is carrying the whole load alone.
Stripped gears, a detached trolley, a worn chain or belt, drifted force settings. Noise usually means dry bearings, loose hardware or flat-spotted rollers, and it is the cheapest stage to catch.
One dented section can often be swapped rather than the whole door replaced. When a door really is done — rusted, delaminated, out of square — we say so instead of selling repairs into it.
Generic technical questions only. Nothing here touches arrival times, prices, warranty terms or credentials, because those are facts this site does not have (D-14) and would be the easiest place to quietly invent one.
The two springs are the same age and have done the same number of cycles. Once one has failed, the other is statistically close behind, and it is now carrying a load it was sized to share. Replacing one means paying a second call-out fee shortly afterwards.
Almost certainly not. Disconnect the opener and lift the door manually to about waist height. A correctly balanced door stays roughly where you put it. If it slams down or shoots up, the fault is in the spring system, not the motor.
Usually the photo-eye sensors near the floor. If one is nudged, dirty or has a spider web across the lens, the opener reads an obstruction and reverses. Check that both indicator lights are steady rather than blinking before assuming a bigger fault.
Once a year is the usual interval for a door in daily use, and the visit is mostly balance checking, hardware tightening and lubrication of the moving pivots. Doors used several times a day, or fitted to a workshop, tend to want looking at more often.
Yes, and it is worth doing. A garage-door-specific lubricant on the hinges, rollers and springs, wiped rather than sprayed everywhere. Avoid grease on the tracks themselves — the tracks want to stay clean, since grease there collects grit and wears the rollers faster.
This is the one job on the door where the honest answer is no. A torsion spring is under enough stored tension to break bones when it releases unexpectedly, and winding one requires bars and a technique that is not obvious from a video.
Start with the remote battery, then try re-pairing it to the head unit. If a second remote also fails while the wall control works, the receiver in the opener is the likely fault rather than the remotes themselves.
Describe the sound and the point in the travel where it happens. That is genuinely enough for us to narrow it to one or two components before anybody drives anywhere.
Estimates are free, itemised by part, and carry no obligation to book the work.